Valemount to Jasper

The haze was even worse this morning and got progressively worse as we drove towards Jasper. We did hear that there was a fire near Valemount a couple of weeks ago that was still burning, but controlled. A ways outside of Valemount we did see spots of smoke rising from the forest but don’t know if that was the same fire or not. The haze was so bad that we could not see any of the mountains that were all around us. At one point it looked as if a snow-covered mountain peak was hanging in thin air because we could see just the peak way up and directly in front of us, but nothing else of the mountain. As we got out of that valley and nearer to Jasper, it got clearer.

We ate lunch in the town of Jasper. It’s interesting, while there is no private industry or homes in the US National Parks (at least the ones I’ve been to), there’s an entire town inside Jasper National Park (called, uh, Jasper). We got into the park for free because the park workers are on strike so they are not manning the entrance booths. I’m not sure how else this will affect us. We did see that a couple of campgrounds are closed because of it and there is apparently some picketing going on here and there. But, like I said, there’s an entire town and all the hotels/resorts that are supported by private interests so I think we’ll be OK.

After lunch we took the drive to Maligne Lake (the largest natural lake in the Canadian Rockies). And the excellent guidebook we bought last night (to replace our very mediocre guide book we brought with us) says that the drive there is “one of the best for viewing wildlife in the Rockies: bighorn sheep, deer, elk, moose, caribou, grizzly bear and black bear”. So we set off with very high expectations! We weren’t completely disappointed. On both the way up and the way back a herd of bighorn sheep was congregating in the road. As opposed to the very skittish sheep we saw in the Rocky Mountain National Park two years ago, these critters weren’t shy at all! They would meander in and out of the cars stopped in traffic and come right up to your window! I have an authentic bighorn sheep nose print on mine! Some people got out of their cars to get good pictures (and, to our amusement, got chased back in pretty quickly!) Unfortunately this behavior and the fact that they were camped out for a good two hours (that we know about) conveniently at a rest stop means that people are obviously feeding them, caring more about a good photo op than the animals’ welfare. We’re going to try the drive again another time at dusk or dawn (bet on dusk) when the animals are most likely to be out.

We’re checked into our hotel now. It’s called The Pyramid Lake Resort. It’s a cool cabin-style resort right on the lake and our room has a balcony overlooking said lake. We’ll probably rent a boat or two and explore it tomorrow. It’s cooler here so we’re happy about that.

Before I go, has anyone ever tried poutine? I have heard it’s absolutely to die for. If you don’t know, it is french fries covered in gravy and cheese curds (sometimes in other things as well, but those are the basics). Some menus innocently just say “cheese” but I think it’s always curds. It’s the curds that are holding me back. Is it really as good as I’ve heard it is??? That’s the other thing holding me back…what if it really is that good??? Because then I might just have to eat it at every meal because…you know…I won’t be able to get it once I get back home. There’s no way that could be good. I’ll keep you posted.

Comments

[Lori]

I've never had poutine (as a semi-vegetarian, meat gravy is out), but I *love* cheese curds. They're salty and yummy and squeak when you chew them. What more could you want in a snack?

[Donna]

They squeak??? Oh my...

[Ellen]

Poutine is wonderful! Try it. Even my kids liked it and teenagers hate everything. Reliving my journey through yours. Enjoy the rest of your time in the Great White North.

[Donna]

I'm thinking that I should at least order a small portion and see how it goes. However, I haven't seen it on the menu since we left Jasper. Also, how is it pronounced??? I suppose I could just point to it on the menu if I had to.

[Ellen]

Its pronounced poo-teen.

And by all means, order some. We even ordered some at a McDonald's in Calgary. Go figure.

[Donna]

Thanks--that's how I thought it was pronounced but I wasn't sure. I was all set to order some today but the restaurants we went to today didn't have it on the menu. I'm glad to hear that McDonalds has it. I promised Adam we'd eat lunch there tomorrow since we haven't eaten there in "so long!!"